Hur bra är pro ray flashlight

There are two ways to manage heat that may be employed independently or in conjunction with one another. The second way is to regulate the power used to illuminate the LED. Too much heat can damage an LED, and it gets less efficient as it gets hotter. For this reason, many LED flashlights have circuitry to manage power consumption. This circuitry has another benefit too, as it prolongs battery life.

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Also note, manufacturers may list the highest possible lumen output of the LED in their light—although they may not be powering it to its full capability to reduce heat or prolong battery life. A super bright light may not cast a beam as far as a less bright light. Variables like the reflector shape and lens play a big role in how far the beam is thrown, and how wide it spreads. Also, consider that LEDs are brightest when they are first turned on. As they warm up, they slowly dim, which is usually imperceptible to our eyes. As the LED dims, our eyes adjust to the light and we can see better with less light. IP is short for ingress protection, meaning protection from stuff getting inside the flashlight. Those letters will be followed by two numbers: The first digit relates to protection from solids like dust or grit. The second digit relates to protection from moisture, in this case the concern is usually water. For the first number, protection from solids, the highest number, six, indicates the light should be impenetrable by dust and sand.

The highest value for the second number, representing protection from liquid, is eight—indicating that the flashlight can be submerged in water deeper than one meter, for longer than 30 minutes, with no harmful effects. There are three main components of our flashlight testing: lumens, beam drop-off, and beam pattern. Lumen testing turned out to be a significant project that helped us gain insight to how lumens relate to flashlight performance. Lumens are measured using a device called an integrating sphere. Integrating spheres are hollow, with a white coating on the inside that diffuses light, bouncing it around in the sphere. A light is fixed in one port, pointing into the sphere, which collects all the light, allowing none to escape, so that it can be measured with a sensor in a second port. Integrating spheres are lab-quality instruments and can be extremely expensive. However, once we understood how they work in theory, we built our own. In doing this, we consulted with product engineers at two companies to vet our ideas, verifying lumens on calibration lights in their sphere to make sure ours would be accurate.

Once our sphere was calibrated, we measured each flashlight in our test at set intervals. We took measurements when we first turned the light on, then every 30 seconds up to 3 minutes; at 5 minutes, and then every 5 minutes up to 30 minutes. We used the measurement at 30 seconds as our official lumens figure for each light, because the brightness drops off quickly. After 30 seconds, most LEDs stabilize and dim at a much slower rate. Beam drop-off is the point where the light is no longer bright enough to positively identify objects. We tested beam drop-off by placing 10 reflective traffic cones, in a line, every 5 meters out to 50 meters. We used a silhouette of a person, painted neutral gray, and moved it between the cones to determine the distance at which we could still identify it. The beam pattern we tested at 10 meters. We measured brightness in the center of the beam, then turned the light 5 degrees right and 5 degrees left and measured brightness at both points.

This helped us determine the width of the bright, beam center. Despite measuring lumens in our integrating sphere, the ML50L performed on par with brighter lights in practical testing. In beam drop-off testing, at a measured distance of 50 meters and using a focused spot pattern, we found our human silhouette was brightly illuminated and easy to identify. Pushing out beyond that to about 90 meters, we could still ID the silhouette. With the reflector adjusted in a flood pattern, the silhouette was identifiable at 50 meters—with a much wider area illuminated—but not as bright as the spot focus. With the reflector pulled back in floodlight orientation, we noted a dim zone in the center of the beam. The ML50L has five functions—high, low, eco, strobe, and momentary on—that are arranged in four function sets with three functions each. The general and outdoor function sets each feature high and low functions, with general including eco and outdoor including strobe.

Law enforcement and tactical function sets both feature momentary on, where the light comes on when the switch is pressed and turns off when released. They both include the high setting, while law enforcement also has eco and tactical has strobe. We found setting the desired function set to be relatively easy and will be something most people would do only once. Switching between functions simply required a single, double, or triple click. The focusing reflector helps this flashlight throw a beam as far as technically brighter lights, as well as making it a little more versatile. The Boulder LC 40 turned out to be a surprising value, with good runtime and a consistent lumen output over time. We found the beam pattern to be slightly narrower and more focused than the Polytac USB X above, which helped it throw nearly as far with fewer lumens. At 50 meters, we could clearly see the outline of our human silhouette, and it was still identifiable out to about 90 meters.

The five light functions—high, medium, low, fast strobe, and slow strobe—are accessible with sequential clicks, about as simple a process as we found during testing. But a port at the butt end of the light is provided to recharge it. Starting at lumens after 30 seconds, it dropped to at 15 minutes and stayed relatively steady, ending 30 minutes at — lumens higher than any other light we tested. The fixed reflector projects a beam with a tight spot pattern that drops about 50 percent in brightness 5 degrees from the center on the left and right. At 50 meters, we could easily identify the crisp outline of our human silhouette, which was still clear out to about 90 meters. We found the nylon polymer flashlight body plenty grippy, and it felt much less cold to the touch than aluminum in low temperatures. A two-way clip allows it to slip the Polytac inside or outside a pocket, oriented lens up or down—our preference was outside, lens down.

With its claimed lumens of , we were able to measure —not a big discrepancy. With three modes to choose from—low, high, and blink—we had no trouble switching between beam settings using the metal button on the end of the flashlight body. Rather than using a rubber-covered charge port, you use the magnetic charger to connect to the rear-mounted button, which serves as the charger contact. Testing lumens in the integrating sphere, we discovered that brightness dropped about 30 lumens in the first 3 minutes. This kind of initial drop is common with LED lights, but after 3 minutes we noticed the brightness started to drop 1 lumen about every 4 seconds. We observed this until the brightness got down to lumens. So it appears, if left on, the light will eventually and slowly dim in order to preserve battery. In fact, when we tested runtime, we confirmed this. When we turned it on and left it, the battery died approaching 5 hours, a fair bit longer than the claimed run time of 3 hours on high power.

And in our practical testing, the PD36R performed quite well. We ran to the limits of our test area when examining beam drop off. The beam projected is primarily an effective, focused spot, with a dimmer area surrounding it. We could easily identify our flat grey silhouette at meters, reaching well beyond the reflective cones we had set out. We found testing runtime to be a bit of a challenge. Like so many other LED flashlights, when set on their highest setting, the light dims if you leave it on for extended periods. There are typically two reasons for this: managing the heat created by the LED and preserving battery life. Regarding heat, we did experience the PD36R getting hot during use, with a maximum temperature at the bezel measured at degrees. Unlike many other flashlights of this size and style, the PD36R has separate power and mode buttons, with power located in the tail cap and the mode button is just behind the bezel. When using the flashlight for longer periods, we preferred this arrangement, which allowed us to carry it low in our hand, with our thumb over the mode button.

This differs from tactical lights with a single button in the tail cap, where we have to hold the light high, with our thumb over the tail and the bezel end near the heel of our hand. Over the course of our lumen test, we found the PD36R to be fairly stable. At 30 seconds, it measured 1, lumens. And at 20 minutes we measured 1, lumens, a drop of 18 percent. We also tested a number of outliers—some four-AAA lights and some one-AA lights—to see if there were situations where they would be an adequate choice. Since then, we've started researching rechargeable models and tested a number of lights from ThruNite, Olight , and Fenix. We placed the light meter behind the flashlight so that it would register only the bounced illumination, not the direct beam. We took readings at the second mark, the five-minute mark, and the minute mark, and then in minute increments after that, up to 90 minutes if the battery lasted that long. During this test, the flashlights were all set to the highest brightness, and the zoom lights were set to their wide-beam mode.

What we got was an idea of how battery drain affected performance—with the better models, it was not linear—and a sense of how flashlights with the same battery configuration compared with one another with regard to general brightness levels and the speed of battery drain. Instead of taking more meter readings in a sealed, lab-like, dark room, I spent night after night after night wandering around the dark New Hampshire woods and more than once caught the reflection of animal eyes looking back at me. We tested in the weeks surrounding a new moon and in an area with very little light pollution. This unstructured testing gave us the most useful gauge of overall usability, beam spread, and beam distance, and it really helped us understand what each light had to offer from a practical standpoint. We also used the flashlights for more regular daily tasks, such as looking under the couch for Legos, checking the crawl space for signs of mice, and investigating strange nighttime noises in the backyard.

Lastly, we used the lights during multiple power outages. As for light output, every single one of these lights is pretty impressive. So oddly enough, brightness ended up being a factor, but not the biggest one. Plus, to paraphrase Wise, the brightest beam that throws light the farthest might not be all that practical for regular use. Of all the lights we looked at, the ThruNite Archer 2A V3 offers the best combination of high-end features at an affordable price. It has a two-button interface that lets you quickly cycle through the four brightness levels—one of which is the very useful, very low firefly mode. As with most of the better lights we found, the beam simultaneously projects a long-distance hot spot and a dimmer wide-angle light, which together give you a great view of your surroundings. After we finished most of our testing, the Archer 2A V3 was the model we kept reaching for when we headed into the woods. The Archer 2A V3 has an interesting two-button interface.

Once the light is on, you control the brightness levels with a second button up at the head of the light. Prior to testing we had never used a two-button light, but we soon realized how convenient the design is. Holding the light with a thumb on top and fingers cradling the bottom, we could toggle through the brightness levels quickly and one-handed with just a few taps of the thumb. Of the two-AA flashlights we tested, only our runner-up, the Manker E12, has a similar two-button setup. This feature, found on some of the other high-end lights we tested, is convenient for quickly turning the light on and off without fully engaging it. In addition, the light has a memory, so it always turns on at the brightness setting you last used.

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The Archer 2A V3 has four brightness levels: high, medium, low, and firefly. At the high setting, we were able to make out the trees at the end of a foot-long field. At the low end, the firefly setting seemed barely brighter than a full moon, so we found it perfect for reading a map or checking on a sleeping child. When we initially heard about these über-low levels often found on high-end flashlights, we rolled our eyes thinking it was a gimmick, but when we got this light in our hands, we ended up using the setting all the time. Of the lights we tested, the Archer 2A V3 offered the lowest of these low settings, which we think is a very nice feature. The Archer 2A V3 also has a strobe setting. Not surprisingly, the brightness levels dictate battery drain. ThruNite claims the high setting has a run time of about 96 minutes and the firefly mode can last 15 days. These numbers are based on use with Eneloop Pro mAh NiMH batteries, which offer better performance than the more common alkaline batteries.

In our tests with Energizer Max batteries, which are alkaline, the high mode lasted around 45 minutes, so a little less than half the stated output with NiMH batteries. Because ThruNite claims the firefly setting lasts 15 days with NiMH, we assume with alkaline batteries that translates to around six or seven days, which is still a considerable amount of time. Having multiple levels of brightness and understanding how much each one offers in terms of battery life left us with a feeling of control over the flashlight. The Archer 2A V3 allows you to use only the amount of light you need. As Wise predicted, we found ourselves operating in the lower-light modes most of the time, with only the occasional jump to the high level. Walking around a house during a power outage, we found no reason to go above the low setting. This means that on the highest setting, the light maintains a consistent level of brightness for about 45 minutes.

At that point the high setting kicks out, and only the lower settings work; this stepping down continues for about 20 to 25 minutes. We saw similar results from the other tested two-AA lights from high-end manufacturers Manker, Nitecore, and Streamlight , but other lights, such as the Craftsman and all of the AAA lights we looked at, had a more linear battery drain—as the chart above shows, they start out bright and slowly and consistently fade down to nothing. The Archer 2A V3 also has a high-quality beam pattern. Around the LED is a reflector with an orange-peel texture, which provides both a focused hot spot and a not-as-bright spill beam surrounding it. In the woods, we could clearly make out tree branches over feet away, and at the same time the area directly around us was lit for full visibility. As a reflector light, the beam pattern on the Archer 2A V3 was pretty comparable to that of the other, similar designs we tried. As for the strobe setting, the Archer 2A V3 mercifully tucks it away from the regular brightness settings yet keeps it fully accessible; you activate the strobe with a long press of the brightness button.

That design is already annoying in regular circumstances—in an emergency, having to cycle through settings to find the strobe is a potential risk. A nice knurled pattern around the body offers a little extra grip, which in our tests proved useful when the light got wet. And the light was small enough to hold between my teeth, which was useful for brief instances when both of my hands were occupied, such as during a quick electrical fix in the basement. Its bezel is slightly crenellated—designed with a small series of ridges that project from around the lens of the flashlight—for use in self-defense. Speaking of drops, the Archer 2A V3 is rated for a 1-meter fall. Many flashlights we tested also came with an IPX rating indicating the standard for protection against water intrusion. The Archer 2A V3 has the highest rating of IPX8, meaning it can tolerate being completely submerged in water over 2 meters deep which we put it through a number of times to no ill effect.

The tested lights from Manker and Nitecore have the same water-intrusion rating as this ThruNite model. The Archer 2A V3 comes with a lanyard, a pocket clip, a replacement cap for the tail switch, and two additional O-rings for the battery compartment. The light is available in cool white and neutral white, which are hard to distinguish side by side; the cool white has a bluish tint and the neutral white has a more yellow tint, as this video explains. We tested the cool white and thought it was one of the warmer lights we saw. During our tests, on more than one occasion, we used the Archer 2A V3 in a dark room and then put it down in a lit room and forgot it was on. The good news here is that in firefly mode the battery drain is so minimal that it would take weeks to empty a full battery, giving you ample time to notice the error. The 70 lumen medium setting holds for 11 hours. In comparison, the rechargeable lights we recommend all crest lumens at their highest setting.

In our personal use, which is fairly extensive, we almost entirely stick to the lowest three settings. Also, the belt clip feels a little on the flimsy side, especially compared with the one on our runner-up, the Manker E12, which is much more robust. Almost everything we like about the Archer 2A V3 is present in the E12, and this model even has a few minor aspects that we liked a little better. But we concluded that the wider range of brightness levels on the Archer 2A V3 offers more flexibility in use and in managing battery drain. The E12 has the same two-button interface with four brightness levels and a hidden strobe function. It has a memory like the Archer 2A V3, as well as the same momentary-on feature. It also has a similar high-quality look and feel, including a knurled body, an anti-roll design, and the ability to stand on its tail. We like that the Manker is about ½ inch shorter than the ThruNite and that the pocket clip has a little more heft.

The respective highest settings on the E12 and the Archer 2A V3 are basically identical, too. Because we found ourselves constantly using ultralow modes, the ThruNite light is our preference—the lower that setting gets, the better. Also, the forward button of the E12 is rubber, whereas the one on the Archer 2A V3 is a more durable metal. Pricing does fluctuate, but still, the manufacturer base pricing of the Archer 2A V3 is lower. Given how similar the two lights are, the fact that the ThruNite has a lower price tag is yet another reason to choose that model. Although we prefer AA flashlights, rechargeable lights offer a lot of advantages. If you can keep up with charging yours, it should be always ready to go at its brightest setting, and you have no need to be constantly disposing of dead batteries. The two models have a similar cost, brightness, and battery life, but the V3 has a better pocket clip.

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The general look and feel of the TC15 V3 is the same as that of the AA-based Archer 2A V3, but the TC15 V3 has a one-button interface that allows for instant access to both the brightest and dimmest settings. But the TC15 V3, like all rechargeable lights, presents a trade-off. For these reasons, we think that a two-AA light like the Archer 2A V3 is a better fit for most people. Still, rechargeables do have some nice advantages. The TC15 V3 has a listed top end of 2, lumens. The interface is a little different than on the Archer 2A V3. The TC15 V3 forgoes the tail switch and puts total control in the single side button. A single press of the button activates the light to the most recently used brightness setting. This design also offers the benefit of being able to directly access both the lowest and highest settings: One long press turns the light on at the dimmest setting, moonlight mode, and a double press turns it on at the brightest setting.

We really like this feature. Once the light is on, a long press toggles through the other settings. The flashlight uses a rechargeable battery that you do not have to remove from the light in order to charge it; the TC15 V3 comes with a USB-C charging cord that plugs directly into the side of the light.

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This kind of charging is becoming a standard feature, but on many lights you must remove the battery for charging. The belt clip on the TC15 V3 is nice and has a double bend, so you can hook it on a belt or a pocket with the lens facing up or down. You can also clip it to the brim of a baseball hat facing forward, creating a makeshift headlamp, though we think the light is a little heavy for anyone to do that on a consistent basis. We also tested and liked the TC15 V2. Honestly, we found the differences among the three models to be slight, especially in brightness and battery life. Because the S2R Baton II has no charging port, there is no way for dirt to gum up the charging process. With this setup, we found it very easy to regularly keep the Olight fully charged. All we had to do was set the light down right near the charging cord, and it would attach itself. At about 4 inches in length, the S2R Baton II is smaller than the rest of our picks, and carrying it around in a pocket is much easier to do.

You can find smaller lights, even models that attach to a keychain, but for some people, the S2R Baton II will work as a daily light. Because the clip has a double bend, you can clip the light to something with the lens facing either way. You can also clip it to the brim of a baseball cap and use it as a makeshift headlamp. Both of the ThruNite lights we picked, on the other hand, have just single-bend clips. Fee gets around the desert festival on a bike laden with string lights. Usually I go through a few sets of lights but this year I actually ran out, as did most people. I ended up just clipping the ThruNite to my bag pointed down and turning it on strobe so people could see me. In more routine conditions, Senior Writer Doug Mahoney reports that all of our flashlight picks continue to be useful for a variety of day-to-day tasks; looking for Lego pieces under the couch, getting cats to come inside at night, and evening check-ins on chickens and sheep.

Doug finds that the very small hurdle of physically plugging in a cord often prevents him from charging. So having the magnetic charger ensures that the light is always charged and ready to go. For one, they all have the single-button interface with the strobe feature as part of the brightness cycle, which is a major flaw. But even worse is that their quality is completely unreliable.